Steven suggested including a cycling tour while we were in Thailand, but I was hesitant. I’d enjoyed previous bike tours, except for that time I cried when I couldn’t get up a hill in Croatia. At 68 could I really manage a cycling tour? I’m not a cyclist who dons Lycra and pedals furiously at every opportunity. I occasionally get on my e-bike but hadn’t been on it for over a year. After a five-minute bike ride up and down the street, I felt confident in my riding prowess, so I set a tour criteria: flat terrain, an e-bike, only 30 km a day, no city cycling and a support van. Steven found a tour with Spice Roads Cycling.
Day 1 – A little bit wobbly.
As a pedestrian I’d already braved the intense traffic in Bangkok and Chiang Mai, noticed the cavernous potholes, avoided numerous street dogs for fear they would bite me, sweltered in the tropical heat and wondered where all the cyclists were. Was I mad?
Noom our guide and Mr Sak the driver loaded us on to the tour van where we discovered this was to be a VIP tour for two. We drove out of Chiang Mai to the Buatong Waterfall-Chet Si Fountain National Park. After enjoying the park and warming our legs up with a hike down to the falls we met our bikes. I had anticipated a step through “woman’s” bike, not one with a bar across and I failed to lift my leg over. The only way I could mount my bike was to lay it on the ground to straddle it. After a wobbly test ride around the car park I was off.
I took my position at the tail of our small pack. At least I had two people to follow but I had no idea where I was going or how long I would be cycling for. I hoped the front crew would warn me of hazards ahead.
Noom led us along quiet roads, past crops of soybeans, mangos, garlic, chilli, rubber trees, marijuana, and rice. The sun blazed down as I dodged potholes, jiggled over dirt roads and stealthily passed sleeping street dogs. I gripped the handlebars so tightly my wrists and shoulders ached.

Yet it was wonderful to be slowly savouring the quiet countryside. We stopped to pat a family of water buffalo. We cycled by colourful and ornate temples and shrines dotted amongst the crops. Noom introduced us to women making soybean patties for local stores. They seemed delighted at the interruption to their day and happily demonstrated their skills.

Morning tea of fresh mango and watermelon served beside a small, newly built temple, was my favourite space of the day. Set amongst the fields, isolated and serene as it glistened in the sun.
We cycled on, lunch in a shady local restaurant overlooking the paddy fields, followed by a visit to Wat Ban Den, a huge and spectacular temple. We were lucky to observe the colourfully attired Palong people from Myanmar (Burma) erecting equally colourful banners for a ceremony.
I ended the 30 km ride hot, tired, stressed, stiff, grateful and happy.
Day 2 – Powering up the hill.
My bike today felt familiar, I didn’t grip the handle bars quite so tightly, my shoulders relaxed and the day was cooler.
We rode to the Chiang Dao Caves, bypassing many beautiful temples adorning every tiny community. We stopped to admire a new enormous Buddha and Monk. How is it that such majestic and beautiful statues are still being built?
To enter the limestone caves we passed through another glorious temple along with a pool of koi, garlands of colourful streamers, and statues of the animals from the Chinese zodiac.
On returning from the caves I discovered the sole of my shoe was coming adrift but resourceful Mr Sak pulled out a tube of glue and promptly fixed it.
Our next stop was an ultra modern, industrial style coffee shop with the first solar panels and battery pack we’d seen. The coffee shop overlooked the Chiang Dao Hot Springs where we were headed. The springs were crowded with young tourists who appeared to be camping or living there, with no desire for crowded spaces we cycled on.
I focused on dodging the dinner plate sized leaves from the teak trees, strewn over the roads. These and shadows from trees camouflaged unwelcome potholes. The street dogs continued to ignore us, hardly raising their heads as we rolled by.
I thanked my e-bike as I cycled up one short steep hill, taking the lead and waiting in the shade for the other two to arrive. I would not have been able to do this without the power assistance the bike provided.
Lunch was takeaway Pad Thai beside another temple. Temples provide toilets and rest spaces where visitors are welcomed.
I finished our 43 km ride calm, relaxed and sated.
Day 3 – Cyclists ahead!
A five minute cycle along a busy four lane road led us to a local market in Fang. As we wandered Noom named the unfamiliar produce and enticed us with a plate of marinated frogs. Noom also assured me we would soon be out of the traffic.
As we re-entered the traffic Mr Sak unexpectedly appeared behind us with the support van. With a “cyclists ahead” sign on the back of the van and a flashing light he created a break in the traffic and shepherded us across the lanes.
A pattern to our days was emerging as we stopped for Thai iced coffee and had morning tea of fresh fruit and sticky rice beside a temple.
I initially thought there were cast iron cooking pots outside every home and business on our route but they were rubbish bins made from recycled tyres.
Along a dirt road we found our path blocked by two trucks laden with foliage to feed elephants. The workers picking garlic in the field laughed and waved to us, beckoning us to come help them toil in the sun. I thankfully rode on.
The 33km ride felt easier today and we finished before lunch. I’m now more adept at mounting my bike. I can lift my leg higher and position the bike better but I’m still a long way from elegance.
Day 4 – Avoiding elephant poo.
We loaded the bikes on a longtail boat and motored for an hour up the Mae Kok River with our skilled Captain navigating us through many rapids. Apart from two operating sand dredges early in the trip and one other boat our company for the morning were herds of water buffalo.
We pulled up the riverbank and disembarked. There was no road, nor signs of civilisation. Noom told us the area had been changed by recent floods. After we all had a bush wee Noom set off on foot to find the road. He returned and we pushed our bikes through the scrub until we hit the remnants of a bush track. This led us directly into the grounds of a high school where the children waved and yelled at us as we cycled through.
We rode on, over rutted dirt roads, relieved by small patches of concrete road. The hills were tough for Noom and Steven, but not for me as I powered ahead of them. We also had new riding challenges today, dodging low hanging branches and avoiding elephant poo.
Our hot, dusty ride was rewarded by a stop at the Karen Ruammit Elephant Camp where we fed a 40 year old female some sugar cane.
We rode 29 km, today averaging 17 km an hour, it was the shortest trip but felt the hardest. The day was hot and the road was rough. I finished the trip exhausted, sweaty, joyful, grateful, relieved and proud.
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