In Thailand and Cambodia people make offerings to spirits every day to create positive karma. We, as tourists, must have been included in their wishes for happiness and well-being as we’ve had a fortuitous trip.

While travelling, including while Cycling through back roads between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, we were offered unexpected opportunities to fill our hearts and minds.

The Grand Palace, Bangkok

We anticipated a spectacular but busy day at the Grand Palace as we joined the throng of tourists channeled through the entrance gates. We followed the crowds along the designated path to the resplendent buildings. Pausing to gain our bearings we found ourselves in front of a small sign offering a “Free English Tour at 10.30 am”, it was 10.27 am. Our unplanned morning allowed us to be here at exactly the right time and place. There were thousands of people visiting the Grand Palace that day but we joined a group of just three others. We enjoyed a funny, informative tour, with a guide who spoke excellent English and happily answered our questions.

The Flower Festival, Chiang Mai

We had no idea Chiang Mai held a spectacular annual flower festival for three days in February. On our second morning in Chiang Mai we caught a glimpse of one colourful exhibit as we drove past on our tour. After discovering it was the last day of the festival, and although we were hot and bothered that evening, we dragged ourselves along to Suan Buak Haad Public Park. There we were treated with an exotic array of 25 large parade floats ornately adorned with flowers, petals and plants. It was an elaborate celebration of botany, art and culture.

Meet the Family, Koh Samui

We gladly accepted the invitation to go to Koh Samui with our daughter-in-law, son and grandson where we would be joined by three of her sisters from England. With their partners and children we would become a party of 15. We built our trip to Thailand and Cambodia around the week we would meet the family.

The offerings we accepted that week included a trip to the elephant refuge, a wonderful day on a boat, shared meals, swims in the pool with the kids, sunset cocktails and numerous cups of tea. What a joy to share time with this loving and fun family. We watched our daughter-in-law bask in the love of her family and our grandson thrive with the doting care of his English cousins, aunties and uncles. In the steamy heat of Koh Samui relationships were built that will last a lifetime.

The Giant Puppet Project, Siem Reap

Wandering through the crowded streets of Siem Reap on our first night in Cambodia, an older man with a British accent yelled at us “Come on, you’ll miss the puppet show.” He ran on, excitedly  beckoning to us. “Come on, come on, it’s about to start.” We followed him, unsure whether this was an offering or a scam. Then, around the corner we saw the giant light filled puppets, and were mesmerised. We had stumbled on the annual Giant Puppet Project which celebrates art, culture and community spirit. Each of the 9 puppets was lead by groups of children who had helped to create them.

Children Are Not Tourist Attractions

There was one offering I should have refused. A tour in Chiang Rai included a trip to the village of the long-necked Karen people. These colourfully dressed tribal women traditionally wear heavy metal rings around their necks. As refugees from Myanmar they have no right to work, education or health care in Thailand. We paid a fee to enter the village and the women sat outside their shops posing for photos.

Some women had their traditionally dressed school age daughters with them. Drawn by one of the young girl’s deep brown eyes and engaging sales skills, and moved by the poverty of the village, I bought a necklace from her. She posed for a photo with me, which I will not post here. That night I pondered whether buying from a child of about 7 years old was appropriate. Was I fostering child labour and reducing her chance of going to school?

Ten days later in Siam Reap, a sign on the back of a toilet door in Apopo Visitor Centre (where they train rats to find land mines) confronted me. It stated: “Children are not tourist attractions. Think before visiting an orphanage”. At Phare Circus, where we watched an astounding modern circus performance, a similar abbreviated sign on the toilet wall, simply said “Children are not tourist attractions.” Both Apopo and Phare Circus are community organisations.

The signs were by the Child Safe Movement who aim to stop “orphanage tourism” which contributes to separating children from families and often supports unscrupulous operators. A few years ago, while writing Not Forgotten: They called me number 10 at Neerkol Orphanage I visited the Little Flower Orphanage in Beijing, which is not open to tourists. I have long wondered whether volunteering or visiting orphanages is beneficial for the children living there.

Children are not tourist attractions. Would it have helped if I insisted on buying the necklace from an adult at the Karen village? Perhaps the offering was the moment of reflection and learning.

Sunrise over Angkor Wat, Siem Reap

Our Cambodian bike tour included a visit to Angkor Wat at sunrise. Despite the allure of the event, I dreaded the 4.40am pick up. For a night owl like me that’s torture. I tiredly sat in the dark waiting for the sunrise and was blessed to see it gently rise behind one of the most spectacular buildings on the planet. The following day our guide emphasised how lucky we were, as for weeks prior the sunrises had been consistently dulled due to cloud cover.

As I post this I’m waiting for the plane home, appreciative of all that we have been offered and accepted on this amazing trip.