We deserve an Olympic medal

beijing-cube-fireworksWho remembers those amazing pictures, beamed all around the world in August 2008, when the Beijing Summer Olympics were opened from the spectacular Bird’s Nest Stadium?…………….

Interestingly,  the actual opening ceremony commenced at 8pm, on the 8th day of the 8th month, in 2008.P1090211 In Chinese culture, the number 8 is quite auspicious, being associated with prosperity and confidence. 91,000 specftators filled the stadium on that night, a relatively small number of people, considering 21.5 million people currently live in Beijing.

P1090234Whilst I wasn’t amongst the 91,000 present at the Birds Nest on that night, Anne and I paid the Olympic Stadium and Aquatic Centre (the Water Cube)  a visit during our Beijing sojourn. So why would we deserve an Olympic medal for following the mainstream tourist pathway?    Simple answer…….we rode bikes to get there along some Continue reading

Spoilt for World Heritage choice in Beijing

P1090096You’d think that as seasoned travellers we would have a bit of an itinerary worked out for each place we plan to visit and be prepared for our time there before we arrive.  Well that’s not really how we operate. Our style is much more to look at TripAdvisor or the Lonely Planet Guide the night before, or maybe on the plane to our destination, and get some ideas about what we should see.

P1090102Consequently, we arrived in Beijing to see Karin and Wei with minimal understanding of the amazing choices that would be offered to us.   Beijing has seven Word Heritage Sites, putting it right up there with Rome and Paris.

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To stop us dithering about which ones to see, our hosts directed us to start our sightseeing with the Forbidden City and follow it the next day with the Temple of Heaven.  One advantage of our laissez faire style of travel is that we Continue reading

A serene introduction to the cacophony of China


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We flew into Guilin, China in the evening and were taken by car, along a four-lane highway with minimal traffic, to Yangshou. The Yangshou Village Retreat was along a dark, quiet country road and we retired for the night, lulled to sleep by the sound of frogs croaking, in a surprisingly palatial room decorated in classic French style.

P1080876The morning greeted us with a stupendous view of the mysterious karst peaks and we grabbed bikes to explore the countryside. We rode past old men ploughing the fields with bullock’s, small children playing and women carrying buckets of water to the garden.

P1080877The road was quiet and we were seldom interrupted by the friendly toot of a passing motorbike. We sat on the banks of the Li River watching empty tour boats glide up the river. A serene first morning in China. Continue reading

Go Biker, Hi Taiwan

The inclusion of Taiwan on our itinerary held two attractors. One was visiting our local friends (Jack & Kitty) and the other was cycling in Taiwan around Sun Moon Lake. Cycling in a foreign place allows you to see things that would otherwise be considered “off the beaten track”, and the bit of exercise that comes with it is an added bonus too.

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The brochures describe Sun Moon Lake as “an alpine lake with serene beauty and tranquility”. In some places around the lake I Continue reading

Taking time for tea in Taipei

I’m a tea drinker. Here’s how my mother taught me to prepare tea. First, warm the teapot by rinsing it out with hot water, then add one teaspoon of tea leaves for each person and one for the pot. Fill the pot with boiling water, cover it with a hand-knitted, brightly coloured tea cosy and allow the tea to brew for a few minutes. Pour the tea into a teacup and make sure you put the milk in first. My mother’s tea was always accompanied by sweet biscuits or cake, always drunk sitting down and at pre-ordained times during the day. Teatime occurred four times a day and was a ritualistic process that could not be altered.

When I first started work, way back in the last century, we stopped the clatter of our manual typewriters when the tea lady arrived twice a day with her trolley and oversized teapot. We gathered around for a cup of well stewed tea, and to catch up on the office gossip, the tea lady knew it all. A tea break really was a break.

Here’s how I make tea now. I throw a tea bag in a mug, pour in boiling water. Jiggle the bag a few times, take it out and the tea is made. My tea has been frequently accompanied by a heavy workload, often the tea is only half drunk as it’s been left to go cold sitting on my desk. Even at home I don’t necessarily stop what I am doing to drink the tea and have been known to walk around slurping from my cup. My mother could never understand the absence of milk. Despite the lack of ritual and routine a cup of tea can still trigger a relaxation response in me.

P1080755Kitty our Taiwanese host, introduced me to the slow art of tea drinking at her home, at the Wisteria Tea House, (a Japanese style teahouse built in the 1930’s) and the Cheng Wei Tea House in the beautifully renovated Lin, Wu-hu Residence, the first building of Dadaochegn.

To drink tea Taipei style first sit down, there is no need to rush, this is a process to engage your senses. With gentle care a tiny teapot is placed in a bowl, boiling water is poured in and over it to warm the pot, then the water is discarded. Tea is placed inside the teapot with a bamboo scoop. The tea has been carefully chosen dependent upon whether you want to feel relaxed or invigorated, how strong you like it and which aroma of the teas on offer appealed to you.

Steve and Anne at WisteriaThe movements of the tea maker are slow, measured and delicate, like a seductive dancer and the chatter ceases as we watch. The warm tea pot awakens the tea and while we wait the small cups are filled with hot water. The teapot is then filled to overflowing with hot water, the lid placed on it and hot water poured over the pot.

Wendy at WisteriaAt the Wisteria Tea House our first pot was left to brew for only 15 seconds. The tea was poured into a small jug and the lid taken off the teapot in preparation for the next round as you need to let the heat out to stop the tea leaves from stewing. From the jug the tea was poured into a thimble sized and shaped cups so that we could take our time to appreciate and saviour the aroma of the tea. We then poured the tea into our pre-warmed, small plain white China cups and were finally allowed to taste the delicacy of the tea.

The tray of tea making utensils were then passed to the left and we all took a turn in making beautiful tea for each other. The same tea leaves were used with the brewing time increasing a few seconds each round. We were challenged to notice the subtle differences in flavour. Our conversation became focused only on maintaining the ritual and savouring the tea.

 P1080871We visited the Cheng Wei Tea House after an evening meal (no longer are we on the hunt for bars) when Kitty spied a light on in the closed shop. She artfully manoeuvred an invitation to enter from the owner who was sitting smoking a pipe and teaching a beautiful young Taiwanese woman the art of calligraphy. He graciously made us tea and again we experienced the slow meditative process of tea making and serving.

Thanks to Kitty when I return home, I’ll dust off my beautiful old teapots, buy myself some aromatic tea leaves and indulge myself in the tradition of making tea with care for myself and others. I’ll allow tea to reclaim its role in making a calm and reflective space in the busyness of life.

A little bit of history & culture from Taiwan

I hate to admit it, but I am not generally one to get excited about history, museums or culture. At a stretch, I suppose you could call me a philistine.

But, my time in Taiwan has improved my interest in, and my attitude toward, both history and culture. That’s a good thing, considering our next destinations and ongoing adventures. The Island of Taiwan was colonised by the Dutch in 1624, and since that time it has been ruled by the Spanish, Tungning, Qing, Formosan, Japanese and Chinese. If you’d like a little more Taiwan history, just click here.

P1080748Rather than retell their story, I’ve decided to share a couple of my Taiwanese cultural highlights, starting with the Taiwan National Palace Museum. The museum attracts historians and tourists from all over the world, especially those from mainland China, and houses a permanent collection of some 700,000 pieces of Continue reading

Discovering the neighbourhood in Tainmu, Taipei

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After a leisurely breakfast with Jack and Kitty, our hosts introduced us to the delights of their neighbourhood, Tainmu in Taipei, such a vibrant community within a few blocks of their home.

The population of Taiwan is around 24 million on an island which is only 36,000 square km.  A lot of those people live in Taipei and you can feel the density and intensity of the population.

First stop was Continue reading

Swapping my workmates for Orangutans

P1080461 (2)When I left work to start this adventure my workmates gave me a travel money card and told me that I should spend it on some sort of experience while we were travelling.  They may well have had ideas of me slipping a parachute on my back, or tying a bungy cord around my legs but that’s not my style. Instead I chose to use the money to fill the gap that my workmates absence has created in my life by having breakfast with the Orangutans at Singapore Zoo.

P1080509 (2)We joined a family of Orangutans for Continue reading

Singapore – it’s Disneyland for Adults

We’ve just spent four wonderful nights in Singapore, staying with friends in the “expensive part” of town on Nassim Road. They told me that the rent for apartments on this street can be as much as $30,000 per month!

Singapore at Night
Singapore at Night

Whilst chatting over drinks, our host Deanne, described Singapore as “Disneyland for Adults”, and after our day out yesterday, I can understand why. The city has something for everyone. There are hawker stalls, expensive restaurants and bars, high street shopping, local markets, theme parks, museums and public gardens, efficient transport infrastructure defined by lush tropical tree-lined streets, all complemented by the ethnic diversity of Chinatown, Little India and Arab Street.

We didn’t see all the sites, but here is a  Continue reading

Breast really was the best

My favourite breastfeeding photo.
My favourite breastfeeding photo, graduating university and feeding my daughter

About 28 years ago I was privileged to become friends with a fantastic group of women.  We were all new mums, learning the tiring, challenging and beautiful art of mothering together.  We were passionate about our role as mothers and were all members of the Nursing Mothers Association, now the Australian Breast Feeding Association. I can’t remember what I learnt at our regular meetings but I well remember the support, understanding and bond I shared with these women.  On the days that I doubted my ability and when I felt as if I was going crazy from lack of sleep they were the ones that made the tea and passed the tissues.

We all breastfed our babies.  The five of us suckled 14 babies.  We weathered Continue reading